Welcome to Indopacificimages, the website of Bali based Australian underwater photographer Don Silcock. There is nothing for sale or adverts on this site, just Don sharing experiences from his extensive travels. Scroll down to see the latest posts, articles and location guides or use the menu above.
Understanding Conservation in Raja Ampat
Understanding Conservation in Raja Ampat – Part 1 – Mark Erdmann… In just over 20 years Raja Ampat, the “Four Kings” of Indonesia’s remote West Papua province, has evolved from an almost unknown location into one of the world’s most sought-after tropical diving destinations.
Back in 2005, when I first visited the area. Diving options were limited to just a few liveaboards and a couple of land-based “eco” resorts – essentially beach camps. Today, at the height of the main diving season, nearly 100 boats operate in the area. And land-based accommodation ranges from basic village homestays to high-end luxury resorts.
While much has changed, some things remain beautifully constant. Starting with the stunning landscape, which is as picturesque as ever. And underwater, Raja Ampat’s renowned biodiversity is as vibrant today as it was during my first dive nearly two decades ago. Not only has that biodiversity been preserved, but top predators are making a strong comeback. In 2005, shark sightings were rare; now, they’re relatively common at many of the main dive sites. Similarly, encounters with both reef and oceanic manta rays have increased significantly, making Raja Ampat one of the few places worldwide where manta ray populations are actually growing.
So, how is it that so much growth has occurred and yet the environment and biodiversity have been largely protected, while specific areas of concern have been addressed? Indonesia after all has long struggled with a poor environmental reputation. Yet this remote outpost of the archipelago has become a shining example of broad-based, proactive conservation that has “lifted the boat” and all those in it! Read on…
Diving Bikini Atoll Part 1 – It’s Complicated….
How do you tell 167 men, women, and children that their island home, which had always provided for all their basic needs, is going to be destroyed by a nuclear bomb? In the case of Navy Commodore Ben Wyatt, the US military governor of the Marshall Islands, he turned to the Bible.
Comparing their situation to “the children of Israel whom the Lord saved from their enemy and led into the Promised Land.” Further promising that their sacrifice was “for the good of mankind and to end all world wars…” So, in March 1946 they left their island – but not for the promised land. Instead, they traveled by landing craft some 200 km to the east, together with all their worldly possessions. Including their disassembled church and community house.
Their destination was Rongerik Atoll. An uninhabited coral atoll of 17 islands, just one-sixth the size of their home island. Said to be haunted by the Demon Girls of Ujae and with an inadequate water and food supply. The Bikini Islanders were told it was a temporary move and that they could come back once the nuclear tests were completed. Almost 80 years later, they have yet to return…
Scuba Diver recently published the first of a series of three article on Diving Bikini Atoll. It’s a four-page article and you can download it using this link to Diving Bikini Atoll – Part 1.
Diving the Solomon Islands WWII Wrecks
Located at the eastern tip of the renowned Coral Triangle, the Solomon Islands consists of a long string of beautiful tropical islands, which are surrounded by the deep trenches and basins of the vast Pacific Ocean to the east and the Solomon Sea to the south.
The diving comes in two distinct varieties. Excellent reefs nourished by regional and equatorial currents, which deliver eggs and larvae along with rich nutrients from the depths. And numerous WWII wrecks that are poignant reminders of the country’s role in WWII. Those wrecks can be divided into two basic categories… Those within recreational limits and those requiring technical diving skills.
This article describes the diving the recreational level WWII Wrecks of the Solomon Islands.
Getting into Blackwater Diving – The Anilao Night Shift…
The images are what immediately grab your attention… Seemingly alien creatures lurking somewhere out there in the dark of night – long after most people have called it a day. Also known as pelagic diving, blackwater is basically night diving on steroids!
Sites for traditional night dives are typically chosen because they are in a relatively shallow area, that is protected from the elements and provides a reasonably safe location to be underwater at night. Blackwater locations on the other hand are the complete opposite. They are in open water where there are currents and well away from land with depths of more than 200m!
Why, you may ask… Well, that’s where those strange creatures are to be found as they rise from the depths once the sun has gone down.
Getting into Blackwater Diving – Learn more about this unique and adventurous form of diving
The Southern Right Whales of Peninsula Valdés
The key lies in how you enter the water… Slip ever so gently over the side and swim quietly toward them, always approaching from the front so that the mother can see you coming and assess the level of threat.
The mother, ever vigilant for potential orca attacks and protective of her young calf, will prioritize caution and may cut short the encounter if she senses danger. However, she’s weary from the constant stress of shielding and nourishing her hungry calf and yearns for a moment of rest. Get it right, and there’s a good chance she will remain stationary, permitting you to draw closer.
If you’re fortunate, she might even allow her curious calf to investigate these unfamiliar visitors. Granting you the delightful experience of playful interaction with a boisterous calf measuring about 5 meters in length and weighing nearly 8 tons!
And if luck truly smiles upon you, that calf might just be El Blanco. An exceptionally rare white calf, among the marvels of Argentina’s Peninsula Valdés. Which serves as the winter sanctuary for the Southern Right Whales of the South Atlantic Ocean.
To truly appreciate the significance of such a moment. A glimpse into the history of the whaling industry and its impact on these magnificent creatures is necessary… Read More
Diving Indonesia – Understanding the Archipelago
The vast archipelago that forms the country of Indonesia has some of the very best tropical diving in the world. But, to understand where to dive when there are over 16,000 islands to choose from, requires an appreciation of the Indonesian Throughflow. Which, at the most fundamental level, is simply the largest volume of moving water in the world.
The Throughflow is also nature’s supply chain that both nourishes the incredible biodiversity of the archipelago and transports its eggs and larvae. It’s truly an amazing phenomena and it all starts where the Throughflow makes first contact in Raja Ampat.
You can use this link to Diving Indonesia – Understanding the Archipelago to read more about that phenomena!
The Humpback Whales of Tonga
Tonga is probably the best place in the world to experience the “gentle giants of the sea” – the incredible humpback whale. Because every southern winter, around the start of August, the Tongan Tribe of southern hemisphere humpbacks arrive from the Antarctic.
And spend the next few months in the Tongan archipelago either mating or giving birth…
Tonga is one of the few places in the world where you are allowed in the water with the whales. And it is possible to experience the full gamut of humpback encounters there. It really is incredible and is very popular with people traveling great distances to experience it all.
But it can be complicated to actually get in the water… So I have put together a guide to help understand what can be seen and what the logistics are. Follow this link to go to Indopacificimages’ Complete Guide to the Humpback Whales of Tonga.
The Ten Best Big Animal Experiences
There really is something quite unique about an eyeball-to-eyeball underwater encounter with a big animal. You are after all but a temporary visitor to their domain… One they may not be the absolute master of, but are far more in control than you can ever hope to be. So, the first thing to understand is that the encounter will take place on the animals’ terms.
Scuba Diver ANZ have published a five-page article of mine on the Ten Best Big Animal Experiences globally. You can check out the article and download a copy using the link.
Diving Tasmania
The “Apple Isle” is, in so many ways, the hidden gem of Australian scuba diving. And getting to know a bit more about it has been one of the highlights of my personal diving career!
There really is a lot to see underwater around Tasmania. But the reality is you would need a couple of months, together with a significant budget to explore it all. My dive buddy and I only had a couple of weeks… So we reached out to various local divers to get their recommendations.
This is what we learned about the “must do” locations and, looking back, I think we got it about right. You can use this link to read the article A Guide to Diving Tasmania.
Big Animal Articles
Posted below are some of the articles I have had published over the last couple of years. I try very hard to write accurate and informative articles and only use images that were taken on the trip – so what you see is what I saw when I was at the location.
All the articles are available as a free download by clicking on the link provided. But please respect my copyright…
Isla Mujeres
Every year, as the summer heat descends on the Yucatan an amazing phenomenon happens to the north-east of Isla Mujeres.
It is called the Afuera, the largest gathering of giant whale sharks in the world – Read more…
Ogasawara Islands
Often referred to as the Oriental Galapagos, the Ogasawara archipelago is located in the north-west Pacific Ocean.
About 1000km south of Tokyo the islands are one of the most isolated areas of Japan – Read more…
Chinchorro
Underwater encounters with big animals are rarely if ever static. They move, often constantly and occasionally very fast!
Whereas American crocodiles remain still, with a coiled-up energy ready to attack – Read more…
Oceanic Whitetips
As recently as the 1960’s Oceanics were considered one of the most abundant large animals in the world.
And just 50 years later, they are now on the IUCN Red List as “Vulnerable” globally – Read more…
Giant Salamanders
Giant Japanese Salamanders are quite unique creatures that live in the rivers of west and south-west Japan.
They are indeed quite large – reaching up to 1.5m in length and around 25kg in weight – Read more…
Great Hammerheads
There is literally nowhere else you can come face-to-face with these incredible animals so reliably as Bimini!
Solitary creatures, Great Hammerheads are really difficult to come across underwater – Read more…
Iconic Australian Diving
Giant Australian Cuttlefish
Every winter tens of thousands of Giant Australian Cuttlefish gather in an area of about 1km² on the western side of South Australia’s Spencer Gulf in the only known “dense aggregation” of these amazing creatures.
It has been called the “the premier marine attraction on the planet”. And it is certainly unique… Where else can you shore-dive in less than 8m of water with so many incredibly photogenic creatures all completely focused on one single thing – sexual reproduction?
Sepia apama, is the world largest cuttlefish. And when fully-grown can reach up to half a metre in total length and weigh in at up to 11kg
Truly fascinating creatures with an incredible ability to instantaneously change their colour and skin texture
Check out this link to understand more about the amazing Giant Australian Cuttlefish…
Great White Sharks Down Under
The Great White Shark, Carcharodon carcharias is one of the ocean’s most magnificent creatures. Superbly evolved, they are truly an apex predator. But, unlike their terrestrial equivalents, there is very little reverence for them.
Instead, and they have become widely demonized as brutal man-eaters that silently prowl our coastal waters. In a seemingly perpetual search for victims and then pouncing with ruthless and terrifying efficiency.
And it is true that great whites have been held responsible for more deaths of swimmers, surfers, and divers than any other shark. But what is the reality about these creatures?
Are they really what the tabloid media have made them, or are they just greatly misunderstood?
Check out this link to understand more about the Great White Shark – Down Under…
Australian Grey Nurse Sharks
Carcharias taurus… Grey Nurse sharks are large enough to get your complete and undivided attention. A big and fierce looking animal, with prominent sharp teeth, they move through the water in a slow but determined manner.
Creating a real presence – one that can also appear to be physically intimidating… And is almost guaranteed to raise the blood pressure of the uninitiated observer.
Known as the Ragged Tooth Shark in South Africa and Sand Tigers in the USA. Grey Nurse Sharks in Australia are now fully protected, but are classified as critically endangered on the east coast.
How the Grey Nurse went from being a very common shark to the very brink of extinction is an incredibly sad story.
Check out this link to the Australian Grey Nurse shark to read more…
Diving Rapid Bay
Located about 100km south Adelaide, Rapid Bay is probably the most popular shore dive in South Australia! With its convenient location, sheltered position and great marine life – it really is pretty hard to beat.
Particularly so given the excellent chances of seeing the wonderful Australian leafy seadragon while underwater there!
There is a much to see underwater on the jetty… And it’s easy to burn all your air with the leafy’s (tempting as it is) and miss out on all the other stuff!
The pylons of the old jetty are testament to the rich seasonal upwellings created by the Leeuwin and Flinders Currents of southern Australia. While they lack the incredible density and almost biblical scale of those on Edithburgh jetty, across the Gulf of St Vincent, Rapid’s pylons have much to see.
Check out the full story on this excellent location with this link to Diving Rapid Bay Jetty…
Diving Edithburgh Jetty
Located on the south-eastern tip of the Yorke Peninsula. The small town of Edithburgh is home to what is possibly the absolute best of all the many wonderful jetties of South Australia.
Dived on a good day with optimal conditions, it is a stellar dive and ranks highly among the “must do” dives in Australia!
The jetty’s pylons, together with its wide and low structure have allowed temperate water corals, sponges and ascidians to thrive on an almost biblical scale. Plus Edithburgh is also a great place to see some of South Australia’s iconic species.
Particularly the wonderfully serene Australian leafy seadragon and the photogenic striped pyjama squid. Check out the full story on this incredible location with this link to Diving Edithburgh Jetty…
Diving Nelson Bay
The picturesque town of Nelson Bay has a well deserved reputation for some of the very best shore diving in New South Wales. And it is true that a couple of its dive sites are truly excellent!
With a wonderful selection of critters and some spectacular sponge gardens, they offer interesting diving and photogenic subject matter for both macro and wide-angle underwater photographers.
The key to understanding both the incredible biodiversity of Nelson Bay and how to dive there is the underwater topography of Port Stephens and the powerful tidal flows that surge in to it.
You can read about both of them and the great dives sites with this link to Diving Nelson Bay…
Scuba Diver ANZ – Papua New Guinea Article Series
Diving PNG – Intro and Overview
Diving in Papua New Guinea… At the closest point of contact just 6km separates Australia from PNG. And yet there is so much that is incredibly different between these two close neighbours!
Australia is a first-world country with generally excellent health, education and social systems, a robust and fully functional democracy together with an average life expectancy of 83 years.
PNG on the other hand is very much a third-world country. Which has major issues with its health and education systems, an operating but troubled democracy and an average life expectancy of just 64 years.
So… why even go there? Well, the answer to that question lays in those very differences plus the amazing topography, the unique cultures and the incredible biodiversity of Papua New Guinea – Read more…
Diving New Guinea Island
When the 16th century European explorers first arrived in this part of the Malay Archipelago. They had no way of knowing they had stumbled upon the second largest island in the world.
Neither could they possibly know that the island is one of the most biodiverse places in the world. Occupying just 0.5% of the Earth’s surface, but with almost 10% of its species … And that is just on the land!
New Guinea island sits at the very heart of the Coral Triangle. With two of the most well-known global diving locations at its extremities… Raja Ampat on the western tip and Milne Bay on the eastern tip.
Numerous other marine biodiversity hot spots have been found around the vast coastline of New Guinea. But the sheer remoteness of it all means there must be many others just waiting to be discovered – Read more…
Diving New Britain Island
Papua New Guinea’s “second island” sits right on the interface of some incredibly powerful forces of nature and is physically located along the infamous Pacific Ring of Fire.
New Britain is a large crescent shaped island that is defined by the incredibly high mountain ranges that run down its spine. Together with its many volcanoes…
So high are those mountains, they create separate and independent weather systems on the north and south coasts of the island. Making New Britain a remote, different and very interesting place that has some really great diving!
From a biodiversity perspective, it has one of the best possible locations, just south of the equator and to the east of the “mainland” it in the epicentre of the eastern lobe of the Coral Triangle… – Read more…
Diving New Ireland Province
Located along the edge of the Bismarck Archipelago and bounded by the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Bismarck Sea to the east, the province of New Ireland forms the eastern flank of PNG.
New Ireland Province is quite remote from the main island of New Guinea and has its own remarkably interesting and quite distinct traditional cultures, together with some really fantastic diving.
The province consists of the large, musket-shaped island of New Ireland, which is also known as Latangai. Together with numerous other smaller islands – the largest of which is New Hanover.
The diving in is centred around Kavieng, the main town and regional capital and also has its own distinct flavour, compared to the other main locations in PNG like Milne Bay and Kimbe Bay – Read more…
Diving Socorro – Mexico’s Galapagos
Diving Socorro – a true “bucket list” adventure if ever there was one! This group of four islands is located in the Pacific Ocean, some 600 kms from the west coast of Mexico. And it offers some quite unique underwater experiences and is almost synonymous with giant oceanic manta ray encounters.
Often referred to as the “Mexican Galapagos” these islands are so special that in July 2016 they were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Then in November 2017 the government of Mexico created North America’s largest marine protected area. And made the whole area a national park with total bans on fishing, mining and tourism development.
Check out the full story on Diving Socorro – Mexico’s Galapagos…
Tiger Beach – Petting Zoo or the Real Deal?
This shallow, sandy area in the Bahamas is firmly established as one of the global diving destinations. With that fame largely derived from the many published images of its most celebrated visitor – Galeocerdo cuvier, the tiger shark.
Tigers are considered one of the “big three” most dangerous sharks. And, together with great whites and bull sharks are believed to be responsible for the vast majority of unprovoked attacks on humans. So, how is it possible for do many divers to be in open water with so many of these sharks?
Check out the full story in the Tiger Beach – Petting Zoo or the Real Deal article…
The Complete Guide to Diving Papua New Guinea
Papua New Guinea enjoys a reputation for some of the best all-round scuba diving to be had anywhere. And truly, its combination of superb reefs, wonderful critter sites and WWII wrecks make it very hard to beat.
Simply stated, the scuba diving in Papua New Guinea is among the very best in the world. And the country is truly one of the last frontiers – a wild and adventurous place that just has so much to see both above and below the water!
But it’s not the easiest place to get to. And, no doubt you will have heard all sorts of stories… Is it safe to go there? Where to go? When to go and how to get there? So I have put together this “complete guide” to understand more about Papua New Guinea and where to dive.
There are comprehensive sections providing an overview of the diving in PNG and why it is good. Plus sections on each major location – Port Moresby, Milne Bay, Tufi, Kimbe Bay and New Ireland. And… a Papua New Guinea Survival Guide to help you better understand the country, the people, the culture and the risks!
Start here with Indopacificimages’ Complete Guide to Diving Papua New Guinea.